Serves about 8
Preheat the oven to 170°C fan/190°C/Gas 5. In a large frying pan, dry-fry the seeds for the stuffing over a medium heat, swirling them gently until their toasted fragrance comes to the nose. Do not burn them. Add the oil to the frying pan along with the onion, fennel, lemon zest, garlic, pancetta and salt and fry all together gently, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or so over a medium heat. Add the white wine and simmer it away over the next
10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the contents of the frying pan just begin to catch and colour. Transfer everything to a large mixing bowl and let it cool. Add the mince and liver to the bowl and stir everything together well.
Finely chop the herbs with the salt and mix in the black pepper. Lay the pork on the work surface, skin-side down. Angling a sharp knife between the fat and meat, cut along the length of the loin fillet so you have almost cut it from the fat but not quite. Open out this flap to create room for the stuffing. Season all over with the herby salt and black pepper. Evenly distribute the stuffing down the length of the belly, packing it in tightly and tucking it in against the loin.
Cut ten to twelve lengths of butcher’s string (to be honest, domestic string will do), each one long enough to go round the meat once rolled. Roll the meat up, starting with the meaty side, tucking it in tightly as you go. Secure the string at equal intervals all the way down the rolled belly. Put the pork on an oven rack with the open edge facing down. Rub a little oil all over the skin and sprinkle with the remaining salt. Put the joint in the oven with a tray underneath to catch the juices.
Cook the pork for 3 hours, by which time the skin should be very crispy indeed. As it cooks, take the tray from the oven about three times, add a glug of water or wine and scrape up the syrupy juices using a spoon before pouring them into a saucepan for gravy.
Rest the meat for 10 minutes or so. Warm the meat juices and skim off the fat. Cut the string off the meat and carve in very thick pieces (about 3–4cm). Delicious with very fine puréed potatoes and maybe some boiled chard with sweet-and-sour onions, sultanas and pine nuts on top. Alternatively, wedge it into some good Italian bread.