Try this most delicious of meats, as thanks to the rise of British rose veal, from calves now reared humanely, the barbecue can be lit without guilt. The idea here is to be generous with the herbs â€“ comparable to a chop lying in a rosemary hedge.
lemon wedges, to serve
Put the veal chops in a large, shallow dish, rub them over with the olive oil and sprinkle with the fennel seeds. Throw in the sage leaves, roughly torn, thyme sprigs and rosemary, broken into smaller lengths. Cut the garlic bulbs in half across the middle and break them up over the herbs and meat. Peel the rind of the lemons in long, wide strips and strew them across the chops.Add plenty of ground black pepper. Cover and leave in the fridge for a few hours to allow the flavours to develop, turning the chops after 3 hours. Light a barbecue 30 minutes before you want to start cooking.
Meanwhile, make the salmoriglio. Pick the marjoram leaves from the stalks and chop very finely. Put in a small bowl and add the extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice (use the one peeled earlier) and sea salt. Stir and leave to stand. When the liquid around the tuna can be handled, take out the fish and flake carefully. Where it is rare in the middle, gently prize the sheets apart with your thumb; donâ€™t tear at it. Lay the pieces about a plate and scatter with some fennel, onion, chile and lemon rind. Splash some juice about the fish and trail over the salmoriglio.
Season the chops well with salt before moving the meat to the hot coals. While the meat cooks, scatter over the herbs, allowing them to smoke and burn where they lie. Cook for 5â€“6 minutes on each side, until gloriously charred but tender, pink and juicy within. Allow the chops to rest for 5 minutes or so. Serve with salmoriglio & lemon wedges for squeezing over and sautÃ©ed potatoes.